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Product Selection Guide · Smart Home

Smart switch or smart relay?

Which product fits where, how much load it carries, how many devices connect, everything you need to make the right choice on a single page. There's a live power calculator below, too.

Easily find the product that best fits your needs

01 · THE BASIC DISTINCTION

Two different solutions, you won't need both

A smart switch and a smart relay serve the same purpose: controlling a light or device remotely and intelligently. You choose one based on your needs, you don't install both at the same spot.

SWITCH

Smart Switch

If you also want the wall switch to look new

  • The old switch is replaced with a glass touch smart switch
  • Visible, sleek and decorative, gives a modern look
  • Ideal for new homes or renovation projects
  • Controls lighting only
  • Higher cost
RELAY

Smart Relay

If your existing switch should stay the same and just become smart

  • Hidden behind the switch, in the ceiling, or on the device line
  • Nothing changes on the outside, no wall work needed
  • Makes devices without a switch smart too (pumps, signs, etc.)
  • Ideal for rentals or older buildings
  • Lower cost
Decision rule: If you also want the look of the wall switch to change, choose a smart switch; if the switch should stay the same and only become smart, choose a smart relay. If the device has no switch (a lamp or pump wired directly), choose a smart relay.

02 · SMART SWITCH

What can connect to a smart switch?

In one word: lighting. There is a limit of about 600W per switch group (gang). It is not suitable for high-power devices other than lights.

Compatible

  • Chandeliers, LED panels, spots and recessed spots
  • Wall sconces, pendants, LED strips (with a driver)
  • Garden and balcony lighting
  • Low-power simple devices (mini fans, etc., under 600W)

Not compatible

  • Air conditioners, water heaters, electric heaters
  • Ovens, irons, stoves, anything high-power
  • Motors and pumps (high inrush current)
  • Socket lines (risky, since what gets plugged in is unknown)
Dimmer difference: A standard switch only turns on/off. To dim a light you need a separate dimmer and a LED marked 'dimmable'.
Neutral (N) requirement: Most smart switches need a neutral wire. In older buildings without a neutral in the box, choose the 'L only' (no-neutral) version.
Gang = the number of separate light groups. 1 gang = 1 group, 3 gang = 3 separate groups (e.g. chandelier + spots + sconce separately). Choose based on how many lights you want to control independently.

03 · SMART RELAY (10A / 16A)

What can connect to a smart relay? By amperage

Amperage determines the maximum power the relay can carry. The wrong choice can damage your device. What matters is the total wattage of all connected devices.

POWER (Watt) = AMPS × 220V

10A ≈ 2200W · 16A ≈ 3500W · stay within 80% of capacity for safety

AmpsCarriesCompatibleNot compatible
10A~2200WLights, TV, modem, fridge, small devicesLighting groups, TV/audio systems, fridge, mini pump, aquarium, garden lights, low-power socket lineAir conditioner, water heater, heater
16A~3500WEverything 10A handles + medium-high powerAir conditioner (split), washer/dishwasher, medium water heater, water pump, heaters under 3500W, microwaveLarge water tank (4000W+), built-in stove/oven, industrial heater
30A+~6600WVery high-power dedicated linesWater tank heater, electric stove, powerful heater (on a dedicated line)None
Air conditioner & pump warning: These draw 2–3 times the normal current at startup (inrush current). For an air conditioner, choose 16A with comfortable headroom rather than right at the limit. If the wattage is close to the limit, stepping up to the next amperage is the safest choice.

04 · WiFi IR REMOTE

WiFi IR Remote: bring every remote-controlled device to your phone

This small device connects all your infrared (IR) remote-controlled devices to your phone and voice assistant. Air conditioner, TV, set-top box, audio system; all managed from a single device and one app.

Controls

  • Air conditioner, the most used and most practical feature
  • TV, set-top / satellite box
  • Audio and music systems
  • Other remote-controlled devices (the remote is copied)

How it works

  • Sends infrared signals just like an ordinary remote
  • Pick your brand from a built-in code library (AC / TV brand)
  • Or scan and copy your own remote
  • Powered over USB, simple setup, no wiring required
Highlight: In summer you can turn on your air conditioner from the road before you arrive and walk into a cool home. All your remotes are gathered on one phone.
Two things to keep in mind: 1) The device must see the unit it controls (infrared travels in a straight line and won't work through walls), so each room needs its own device. 2) Place it in the open, not inside a cabinet. Very old or unknown brands may not have ready-made codes, but copying your own remote solves most cases.

05 · LIVE CALCULATOR

Which relay is enough? Calculate it

Check the devices you plan to connect and enter the quantity. It shows the total power and instantly recommends the right relay.

Select devices

Total Power

0W

02200 (10A)3500 (16A)
Select a device →

06 · HOW MANY DEVICES?

"How many?" is really two questions

DEVICES PER RELAY

A relay has a single output (a single line). You can connect more than one device to that line; what matters is the total wattage, not the count. If the total power is low, 10 small lamps connect easily, but a single air conditioner can push the limit. Devices on the same line turn on and off together, if you want independent control, you need a separate relay for each group.

RELAYS / DEVICES PER HOME

WiFi models connect directly to your modem; the practical limit is the modem's capacity (around 30–50 devices), and 10–15 in a home is no problem. Zigbee models connect to a gateway, and a single gateway supports up to 128 devices, ideal for large homes, hotels or workplaces, without straining your modem.

Practical decision: For a few devices and a simple setup, WiFi models are enough. For many devices or large spaces, Zigbee + a gateway is more stable and won't strain your modem.

07 · FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Common questions

The most asked questions when choosing the right product, with clear answers.

Do I want the look of my wall switch to change?+

If you want a fresh look too, choose a smart switch; if the switch should stay the same, the hidden smart relay is the right choice.

What do I want to control, a light or a device?+

For lights only, a smart switch is enough. For devices like air conditioners, machines or pumps, you need a smart relay (16A).

Do I want to dim the light, or is on/off enough?+

To adjust the light level you need a dimmer and a 'dimmable' LED. If on/off is enough, a standard smart switch works.

How many separate lights will I control independently?+

This determines the gang (group) count: 1 gang for a single group, 3 gang for three separate groups.

How many devices will I connect, and how large is the space?+

For few devices, WiFi models; for many devices or large spaces, Zigbee + a gateway is recommended.

What should I watch out for with high-power devices?+

A smart switch is for lighting only. For powerful devices like air conditioners, water heaters and heaters, always use a smart relay with the right amperage.

Can I control my air conditioner or TV from my phone?+

Yes. With a WiFi IR remote you can manage IR remote-controlled devices like air conditioners and TVs from your phone. Each room needs its own device, since infrared signals don't pass through walls.

Technical note: Relays and residual-current devices are panel/wiring work and must be installed by a qualified electrician (electrical hazard). Wattage values are typical estimates; the device's real power is on its label. If a value is close to the limit, step up to the next amperage.

Not sure which product fits you?

Let's assess your needs together and recommend the right solution.